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My finished tool/storage shed with solar panel on the right side
How To Install A Solar Panel
Before proceeding to our topic of installing solar panel, let me give you a brief introduction about solar panels and their types.
A solar panel (also solar module, photovoltaic module or photovoltaic panel) is a packaged connected assembly of photovoltaic cells. The solar panel can be used as a component of a larger photovoltaic system to generate and supply electricity in commercial and residential applications. Each panel is rated by its DC output power under standard test conditions, and typically ranges from 100 to 320 watts. The efficiency of a panel determines the area of a panel given the same rated output - an 8% efficient 230 watt panel will have twice the area of a 16% efficient 230 watt panel. Because a single solar panel can produce only a limited amount of power, most installations contain multiple panels. A photovoltaic system typically includes an array of solar panels, an inverter, and sometimes a battery and or solar tracker and interconnection wiring.
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A solar panel or photovoltaic module, is composed of individual PV cells. This crystalline-silicon panel has an aluminium frame and glass on the front. |
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A solar cell (also called a photovoltaic cell) is an electrical device that converts the energy of light directly into electricity by the photovoltaic effect. It is a form of photoelectric cell (in that its electrical characteristics-- e.g. current, voltage, or resistance-- vary when light is incident upon it) which, when exposed to light, can generate and support an electric current without being attached to any external voltage source. (Source: Wikipedia)
T
ypes of Solar Panels:
1.
Monocrystalline silicon (mono-silicon or single silicon) - the most efficient type of solar panels. They convert sunlight into more electricity than the other types below. As a result of their high silicon content, they’re also more expensive, but you need fewer of them. That’s the reason why they’re ideal for roofs, because fewer solar panels means lesser load bearing weight.
2.
Polycrystalline silicon (multicrystalline or multi-silicon) - have lower silicon levels than “mono” panels. In general, that makes them less expensive to produce, but they’re also slightly less efficient. Their overall construction design can often make up for the efficiency loss, so they’re also good for roofs.
3.
Amorphous silicon (thin film) - inexpensive to make and can absorb sunlight even on a cloudy or rainy day, but not efficient as compared to the first two above. They are usually installed on ground structures and not on roofs. This is the type of solar panel that we are going to install.
There are two more types of solar panels:
BIPV (building integrated photovoltaics) and
solar hot water (
thermal) panels. BIPV’s look like real roofing tiles such as
solar shingles. They have good aesthetic looks, but good looks cost a lot more. Also, they are less efficient than conventional PV.
Now that we're done with the
crash course on solar panels, let's get down to business.
Tools You Need:
1. Electrical Pliers/Wire Cutter
2. Flat Head and Phillips Screwdrivers
3. Electric Drill/Screwdriver (optional)
4. Wire Stripper/Terminal Crimping Tool - this is a must have tool if you are a novice
Schematic/Wiring Diagram:
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Wiring diagram from solar panel to junction box |
The solar panel kit comes in 3 pieces, rated at
15 watts each for a total of
45 watts with its own connecting wires, 20 feet in length (
gauge #16). This is good for short distance only from solar panel to solar controller/voltage regulator because as you go farther, there is a higher voltage drop along the wires. Here is what you need to do to minimize
voltage drop:
1. Cut/splice the wires to desired length using wire cutter/splicer.
2. Connect positive to positive (red wires) and negative to negative (black wires).
3. Attach the connected wires to wire connectors/terminal block and place them inside a PVC junction box.
4. Use an insulated 3-wire extension chord (
gauge #12), usually comes in standard
25-foot and
50-foot length, and cut to desired length from the PVC
junction box to the location of the
solar controller/voltage regulator.
5. Connect the
positive wire (red) from the junction box terminal to the
positive terminal of the solar controller/voltage regulator. Then connect the
negative wire (black)
to the negative wire (black) of the same component.
6. Use
gauge #4 wire, 3 feet in length for connecting the solar controller/voltage regulator to
12-volt DC battery and from battery to inverter (
see wiring diagram). Make sure the positive wires and negative wires do not touch each other, as this will cause
short circuit causing damage to your expensive components, especially the
inverter.
The color of the wires vary depending upon the source or manufacturer, so pay
close attention to what kind of terminal you connect the wires to.
Simple rule is:
positive to positive and
negative to negative. I can't emphasize well enough about this simple rule, but this is
very important.
Before starting any of the above instructions, make sure you cover the solar panels first to prevent electricity from flowing through the wires while you are working, and to prevent damage to solar panels just in case the wires accidentally come in contact with each other.
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The inverter (left side) which converts DC to AC power is connected to two 12-volt deep cycle lead acid battery (2nd battery not yet connected) with a rating of 105 amphours. The battery is connected to the solar charge controller or voltage regulator that came with the kit, as well as two light bulbs.
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On the left side is a 1000-watt pure sine wave inverter which I bought from Amazon.com and on the right side is a 7-amp solar charge controller that came with the kit. As you can see the output voltage is 12.5 volts DC. |
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The front panel of the solar charge controller is equipped with
USB port and three other ports (
6-volt, 9-volt, 12-volt) for charging
cell phones, laptops, car battery and other
portable DC devices. You only need a
300-watt inverter for this particular
set-up, but I opted for a higher output size for future use, as I plan to install more solar panels in the near future.
There you go folks, you have just learned how
easy it is
to install a solar panel. Maybe next time, we can build the
solar panels ourselves from new or recycled
solar cells. You will be surprised how easy and simple it is to build one.
Next time I will cover
cost benefits and
payback calculations of
solar panels based on my experiment. Hope I shed some light on this topic, as I tried to discuss this in
layman's terms as much as I could. If you have some
questions, you can
post them under the
comments section of this article below.